"Done. That's done. That cake is done."
Tuesday 21 February 2012
Sunday 19 February 2012
The Wheel of Life
If you don't like cheese let's face it, you're a freak. If you're lactose intolerant, I feel sorry for you. Cheese has been knocking about for years, the practice of making it in fact is so ancient that it pre-dates recorded history.
There is no conclusive evidence indicating where cheesemaking originated from, though the earliest archeological evidence of the practice has apparently been found on Egyptian tomb murals dating back to around 2000 BC. It's no surprise then that cheese and the practice of making it has evolved over time to produce a seemingly infinite variety of different types. The British Cheese Board claims that Britain has approximately 700 distinct local cheeses; France and Italy have allegedly 400 each. That's a lot of cheese.
In Italy perhaps the most famous of them all is Parmigiano Reggiano. Parmigiano is the Italian adjective for Parma. Reggiano is the Italian adjective for Reggio Emilia. Parmesan is the French-language name for it and also serves as the informal term for the cheese in the English language. The name Parmesan is also used for cheeses which imitate Parmigiano-Reggiano, with phrases such as "Italian hard cheese" adopted to circumvent legal constraints. The closest legitimate Italian cheese to Parmigiano-Reggiano is Grana Padano, which is perfectly fine so long as you know the difference.
According to legend, Parmigiano-Reggiano was created during the Middle Ages in Bibbiano, in the province of Reggio Emilia. Production soon spread to the Parma and Modena areas. Historical documents show that in the 13th and 14th centuries, Parmigiano was already very similar to that produced today, which just goes to show that when something is already exceptional you needn't mess around with the formula.
The name is trademarked, and in Italy, exclusive control is exercised over its production and sales by the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Consorzio, which was created by a governmental decree. Each wheel must meet strict criteria early in the ageing process, when the cheese is still soft and creamy, to merit the official seal and be placed in storage for ageing. Because it is widely imitated, Parmigiano-Reggiano has become an increasingly regulated product, and in 1955, it became what is known as a 'certified name'.
In the European Union therefore, "Parmigiano-Reggiano" is a protected designation of origin (DOC); legally, the name refers exclusively to the Parmigiano-Reggiano DOC cheese manufactured in a limited area in northern Italy. Special seals identify the product as authentic, with the identification number of the dairy, the production month and year, a code identifying the individual wheel and stamps regarding the length of ageing. It really is serious business.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from raw cow's milk. The whole milk of the morning milking is mixed with the naturally skimmed milk of the previous evening's milking, resulting in a part skim mixture. The milk is then pumped into copper-lined vats (copper heats and cools quickly). Starter whey is then added, and the temperature is raised. Calf rennet is also added, and the mixture is left to curdle for 10–12 minutes. The curd is then broken up into small pieces and the temperature raised, it's then left to settle for 45–60 minutes.
The compacted curd is collected in a piece of muslin, divided and placed in moulds. The famous wheel shape is obtained by placing the cheese into a stainless steel, round form that is pulled tight with a spring-powered buckle so that the cheese retains a rotund shape. After a day or two, the buckle is released and a plastic belt is used to brand it.
The imprints take hold on the rind of the cheese after about 24 hours and the wheel is then put into a brine bath to absorb salt for 20–25 days. After brining, the wheels are transferred to the ageing rooms in the plant for 12 months. Each cheese and the shelf underneath it is then cleaned every week.
At 12 months, the Consorzio Parmigiano-Reggiano inspects each and every cheese. The cheese is tested by a master grader whose only instruments are a hammer and his ear. By tapping the wheel at various points he can identify whether the cheese is top grade or not (I want to meet such a person). The wheels that pass the test are then heat branded on the rind with the Consorzio's logo. Those that do not pass the test used to have their rinds marked with lines or crosses all the way around to inform consumers that they are not getting top-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano; more recent practices simply have these lesser rinds stripped of all markings.
Traditionally, cows have to be fed only on grass or hay, producing grass fed milk. Only natural whey culture is allowed as a starter, together with calf rennet.
The only additive allowed is salt, which the cheese absorbs while being submerged for 20 days in brine tanks saturated to near total salinity with Mediterranean sea salt. The product is aged an average of two years with best stuff going up to 36 months. The cheese is produced daily, and it can show a natural variability. True Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese has a sharp, complex fruity/nutty taste with a strong savoury flavour, gritty texture and a very long lasting flavour.
The average wheel is about 18–24 cms high, 40–45 cms in diameter, and weighs 38 Kg. So there you have it, a quick overview of one of the world's greatest and most famous cheeses. I double dare you to buy the pre-grated stuff...
There is no conclusive evidence indicating where cheesemaking originated from, though the earliest archeological evidence of the practice has apparently been found on Egyptian tomb murals dating back to around 2000 BC. It's no surprise then that cheese and the practice of making it has evolved over time to produce a seemingly infinite variety of different types. The British Cheese Board claims that Britain has approximately 700 distinct local cheeses; France and Italy have allegedly 400 each. That's a lot of cheese.
In Italy perhaps the most famous of them all is Parmigiano Reggiano. Parmigiano is the Italian adjective for Parma. Reggiano is the Italian adjective for Reggio Emilia. Parmesan is the French-language name for it and also serves as the informal term for the cheese in the English language. The name Parmesan is also used for cheeses which imitate Parmigiano-Reggiano, with phrases such as "Italian hard cheese" adopted to circumvent legal constraints. The closest legitimate Italian cheese to Parmigiano-Reggiano is Grana Padano, which is perfectly fine so long as you know the difference.
According to legend, Parmigiano-Reggiano was created during the Middle Ages in Bibbiano, in the province of Reggio Emilia. Production soon spread to the Parma and Modena areas. Historical documents show that in the 13th and 14th centuries, Parmigiano was already very similar to that produced today, which just goes to show that when something is already exceptional you needn't mess around with the formula.
The name is trademarked, and in Italy, exclusive control is exercised over its production and sales by the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Consorzio, which was created by a governmental decree. Each wheel must meet strict criteria early in the ageing process, when the cheese is still soft and creamy, to merit the official seal and be placed in storage for ageing. Because it is widely imitated, Parmigiano-Reggiano has become an increasingly regulated product, and in 1955, it became what is known as a 'certified name'.
In the European Union therefore, "Parmigiano-Reggiano" is a protected designation of origin (DOC); legally, the name refers exclusively to the Parmigiano-Reggiano DOC cheese manufactured in a limited area in northern Italy. Special seals identify the product as authentic, with the identification number of the dairy, the production month and year, a code identifying the individual wheel and stamps regarding the length of ageing. It really is serious business.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from raw cow's milk. The whole milk of the morning milking is mixed with the naturally skimmed milk of the previous evening's milking, resulting in a part skim mixture. The milk is then pumped into copper-lined vats (copper heats and cools quickly). Starter whey is then added, and the temperature is raised. Calf rennet is also added, and the mixture is left to curdle for 10–12 minutes. The curd is then broken up into small pieces and the temperature raised, it's then left to settle for 45–60 minutes.
The compacted curd is collected in a piece of muslin, divided and placed in moulds. The famous wheel shape is obtained by placing the cheese into a stainless steel, round form that is pulled tight with a spring-powered buckle so that the cheese retains a rotund shape. After a day or two, the buckle is released and a plastic belt is used to brand it.
The imprints take hold on the rind of the cheese after about 24 hours and the wheel is then put into a brine bath to absorb salt for 20–25 days. After brining, the wheels are transferred to the ageing rooms in the plant for 12 months. Each cheese and the shelf underneath it is then cleaned every week.
At 12 months, the Consorzio Parmigiano-Reggiano inspects each and every cheese. The cheese is tested by a master grader whose only instruments are a hammer and his ear. By tapping the wheel at various points he can identify whether the cheese is top grade or not (I want to meet such a person). The wheels that pass the test are then heat branded on the rind with the Consorzio's logo. Those that do not pass the test used to have their rinds marked with lines or crosses all the way around to inform consumers that they are not getting top-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano; more recent practices simply have these lesser rinds stripped of all markings.
Traditionally, cows have to be fed only on grass or hay, producing grass fed milk. Only natural whey culture is allowed as a starter, together with calf rennet.
The only additive allowed is salt, which the cheese absorbs while being submerged for 20 days in brine tanks saturated to near total salinity with Mediterranean sea salt. The product is aged an average of two years with best stuff going up to 36 months. The cheese is produced daily, and it can show a natural variability. True Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese has a sharp, complex fruity/nutty taste with a strong savoury flavour, gritty texture and a very long lasting flavour.
The average wheel is about 18–24 cms high, 40–45 cms in diameter, and weighs 38 Kg. So there you have it, a quick overview of one of the world's greatest and most famous cheeses. I double dare you to buy the pre-grated stuff...
Saturday 11 February 2012
The Ragu & Bone Man
There are sauces and then there are SAUCES, Ragu without question qualifies as the latter. As with all italian recipes the beauty lies in its inherent simplicity, one pan is really all you need and other than some basic prep work no maintenance is required. Ideal for lazy Sundays. So push the roast beef to one side and get involved, here's how I make mine.
Serves plenty:
2 medium onions(finely chopped)
2 large carrots (grated)
2 sticks of celery (finely chopped)
Handful of basil stalks (finely chopped)
1 large tbsp of tomato puree
2 racks of ribs
500g of top side beef
6 large Italian sausages
2 tins of chopped tomatoes
2 bottles of passata
1 bottle of red wine
Handful of chopped basil
Parmesan (don't you dare use the pre-grated stuff)
First things first, remove the skin from your sausages, chop your racks into individual ribs and brown all of the meat in batches in a little olive oil. By the time you've finished the bottom of the pan should be dark and charred by the meat, keep the heat on and add a glass of wine to deglaze it.
Now add the onion, celery, carrot, and basil stalks. I choose to grate the carrots because it's quicker than chopping and they literally dissolve into the sauce leaving an earthy undertone. Once these have taken on a bit of a sheen add the tomato puree and a dash of water.
After a few minutes add all of the meat, season well and pour in two large glasses of wine. Burn off the alcohol and then pour in the passata and chopped toms. Stir well, put the lid on, lower the heat and get ready to sit back for 3-4 hours.
You'll need to stir the sauce occasionally but you'll know when it's ready as the pork will be falling off the bones, the sausages will have disintegrated and the beef will be so tender having been poached in the sauce that you'll be able to pull it apart with a fork.
To complete the sauce scatter in the chopped basil and sprinkle very generously with parmesan. Ladle over polenta or pasta, pappardelle are particularly well suited.
I could literally eat this every day...
Serves plenty:
2 large carrots (grated)
2 sticks of celery (finely chopped)
Handful of basil stalks (finely chopped)
1 large tbsp of tomato puree
2 racks of ribs
500g of top side beef
6 large Italian sausages
2 tins of chopped tomatoes
2 bottles of passata
1 bottle of red wine
Handful of chopped basil
Parmesan (don't you dare use the pre-grated stuff)
First things first, remove the skin from your sausages, chop your racks into individual ribs and brown all of the meat in batches in a little olive oil. By the time you've finished the bottom of the pan should be dark and charred by the meat, keep the heat on and add a glass of wine to deglaze it.
Now add the onion, celery, carrot, and basil stalks. I choose to grate the carrots because it's quicker than chopping and they literally dissolve into the sauce leaving an earthy undertone. Once these have taken on a bit of a sheen add the tomato puree and a dash of water.
After a few minutes add all of the meat, season well and pour in two large glasses of wine. Burn off the alcohol and then pour in the passata and chopped toms. Stir well, put the lid on, lower the heat and get ready to sit back for 3-4 hours.
To complete the sauce scatter in the chopped basil and sprinkle very generously with parmesan. Ladle over polenta or pasta, pappardelle are particularly well suited.
I could literally eat this every day...
Tuesday 7 February 2012
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